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MENJITSUSelvedge fit finder
in cm

The fit guide

Units
in cm

Six families, from wide to slim tapered. Makers each have their own names; we group by the maker’s fit and show what the tape measure says. Set your size below and every description re-writes itself around it.

My size

Tailor the guide to your size

Pick the tag size you usually wear. The drawings, numbers and descriptions below all switch to it, and it carries over to the catalogue.

28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 38 40
Your size32

28 of 28 models we chart are made in size 32. Across them the waistband actually measures 30¾″–35″, typically 33″. Tag sizes are a starting point, not a measurement.

Match a pair you own for a precise fit →

Wide

Full from hip to hem.

Room through the seat and thigh that carries all the way down. The knee and the opening stay generous, so the leg falls in a column and drapes over the shoe. Usually paired with a higher rise.

Your size 32

In size 32, Wide jeans finish with a generous, open hem of about 9¼″. Through the thigh they’re a little roomy for your size, at about 12⅞″ (12¼″–14⅛″ across 6 models). The leg drops about ⅞″ from knee to hem, a gentle narrowing toward the ankle. Front rise is around 12¼″: high, made to sit at the natural waist.

Slimmest: Japan Blue Jeans JMJE1300 (12¼″ thigh) · Roomiest: Samurai Jeans S310XX19oz-II (14⅛″ thigh)

Drawn: Samurai Jeans S310XX19oz-II, size 32.

Typical in your size 32

Front rise
12¼″10⅝–13
Thigh
12⅞″12¼–14⅛
Knee
10¼″8⅝–11
Leg opening
9¼″8⅝–10¼
See 6 models →

Straight

The 501 lineage.

A regular top block and a leg that runs nearly parallel from knee to hem. Roomy enough to sit and move, clean enough to cuff. The shape most vintage reproductions are built on.

Your size 32

In size 32, Straight jeans finish with a slightly wider opening of about 8¼″. Through the thigh they’re a little roomy for your size, at about 13″ (12⅝″–13″ across 5 models). The leg drops about ⅞″ from knee to hem, a gentle narrowing toward the ankle. Front rise is around 11¾″: a little higher than average.

Slimmest: Full Count 1101W (12⅝″ thigh) · Roomiest: 3sixteen CS-100xk (13″ thigh)

Drawn: Iron Heart IH-634S, size 32.

Typical in your size 32

Front rise
11¾″10¾–12¼
Thigh
13″12⅝–13
Knee
9⅛″9–9½
Leg opening
8¼″8–9
See 5 models →

Slim Straight

Trim, but never tapered.

Takes the straight leg in through the seat and thigh while keeping the column shape below the knee. Neat with boots and the easiest way to wear heavyweight denim without bulk.

Your size 32

In size 32, Slim Straight jeans run a touch slimmer through the thigh than average for your size. Expect about 12″ across the thigh (11¼″–12″ across 5 models) and a middle-of-the-road opening of around 8″. The leg drops about ½″ from knee to hem, so the lower leg reads as a straight column. Front rise is around 10¾″: a shade low.

Slimmest: Studio D'Artisan SD-103 (11¼″ thigh) · Roomiest: 3sixteen SL-120x (12″ thigh)

Drawn: Iron Heart IH-666S, size 32.

Typical in your size 32

Front rise
10¾″10¼–11⅜
Thigh
12″11¼–12
Knee
8½″8–8⅞
Leg opening
8″7¾–8⅛
See 5 models →

Relaxed Tapered

Easy up top, sharp at the ankle.

A generous rise and thigh for comfort, then a decisive taper below the knee so the hem stays tidy. The modern Japanese favourite, and kind to athletic legs.

Your size 32

In size 32, Relaxed Tapered jeans run about average through the thigh for your size. Expect about 12½″ across the thigh (12″–13¼″ across 6 models) and a much narrower opening of around 7″. The leg drops about 1½″ from knee to hem, a clear taper that keeps the hem tidy over shoes. Front rise is around 11⅜″: a typical mid rise.

Slimmest: Oni Denim 622ZR (12″ thigh) · Roomiest: Momotaro 0405-12 (13¼″ thigh)

Drawn: Momotaro 0605-SP, size 32.

Typical in your size 32

Front rise
11⅜″10¼–11⅝
Thigh
12½″12–13¼
Knee
8½″8¼–8¾
Leg opening
7″6⅜–7¾
See 6 models →

Tapered

Regular top, narrowing leg.

A standard seat and thigh with a steady taper from the knee. The everyday middle ground: not slim, not baggy, and it stacks neatly over sneakers.

Your size 32

In size 32, Tapered jeans run about average through the thigh for your size. Expect about 12½″ across the thigh (12¼″–12¾″ across 3 models) and a much narrower opening of around 7¼″. The leg drops about 1⅜″ from knee to hem, a clear taper that keeps the hem tidy over shoes. Front rise is around 11¼″: a typical mid rise.

Slimmest: 3sixteen CT-100xk (12¼″ thigh) · Roomiest: Momotaro 0105-SP (12¾″ thigh)

Drawn: 3sixteen CT-100xk, size 32.

Typical in your size 32

Front rise
11¼″10⅞–12
Thigh
12½″12¼–12¾
Knee
8⅝″8½–8¾
Leg opening
7¼″6¾–7½
See 3 models →

Slim Tapered

Close through the leg, narrow at the hem.

Slim through the seat and thigh and tapering all the way to a small opening. The sharpest silhouette here; sizing matters most, so check the thigh number.

Your size 32

In size 32, Slim Tapered jeans run noticeably slimmer through the thigh than most jeans in your size. Expect about 11¾″ across the thigh (11¼″–12″ across 3 models) and a much narrower opening of around 7″. The leg drops about 1¼″ from knee to hem, a gentle narrowing toward the ankle. Front rise is around 10¾″: a shade low.

Slimmest: Iron Heart IH-777S (11¼″ thigh) · Roomiest: Momotaro 0306-SP (12″ thigh)

Drawn: Iron Heart IH-777S, size 32.

Typical in your size 32

Front rise
10¾″10–11
Thigh
11¾″11¼–12
Knee
8¼″8–8¼
Leg opening
7″6¾–7¼
See 3 models →
How to measure

Measure the pair you already love

Lay the jeans flat on a table, buttoned, and smooth out wrinkles without stretching. Measure across the top layer only.

RISE 10¾″ WAIST 33″ THIGH 12¾″ KNEE 9″ OPENING 8¼″
  1. WaistStraight across the top of the waistband, then double it. Bring the front band level with the back first.
  2. Front riseFrom the crotch seam straight up to the top of the waistband, beside the fly.
  3. ThighStraight across the leg, one inch below the crotch, from inseam to outseam.
  4. KneeAcross the leg about 13–14″ down from the crotch seam. Makers vary here, so treat it as a guide.
  5. Leg openingStraight across the hem, un-cuffed.
Glossary

Words worth knowing

赤耳

Selvedge · akamimi

The “self-edge” of fabric woven on a narrow shuttle loom. Cuff a pair and you’ll see it on the outseam, often finished with a red line: the akamimi, or “red ear”.

防縮

Sanforized

Pre-shrunk at the mill. Expect only small changes, often a little length, after the first soak.

未防縮

Unsanforized

Loomstate cotton that will shrink, sometimes by a size, when it first meets water. Check whether a chart is pre- or post-soak.

ワンウォッシュ

One-wash

Washed once at the factory so most shrinkage is already done. Charts for one-wash jeans usually describe the finished size.

平置き

Flat measurement

Thigh, knee and opening are measured across one layer of a jean lying flat: half the circumference. Waist is usually given doubled.

縦落ち

Tate-ochi

Vertical fading. The streaky, rain-like fades that slubby, uneven Japanese yarns produce as the indigo wears away.