Selvedge 101 入門

What makes it selvedge

Selvedge (self-edge) denim is woven on narrow shuttle looms that run the weft yarn back and forth in one continuous thread, so each edge of the fabric finishes itself and won’t fray.

• Turn up a cuff and you’ll see the clean edge along the outseam, often with a coloured line: the “selvedge ID”.
• Shuttle looms are slow and narrow, so the cloth is denser and less uniform, which is where much of its character comes from.
• Selvedge is about how the cloth was woven, not a guarantee of quality on its own; cotton, yarn, dye and sewing matter just as much.

Raw, rinsed or one-wash

How the jeans leave the factory decides how they’ll change on you.

• Raw (rigid) jeans have never been washed. They’re stiff, the indigo is untouched, and they mould to you as you wear them.
• Rinsed or one-wash jeans have been washed once at the factory: softer from day one, with most shrinkage already done.
• Raw gives the most personal fades; one-wash is the easier start if you want predictable sizing.

Sanforized vs unsanforized

This is the single most important label to check before you size.

• Sanforized fabric has been pre-shrunk at the mill. Expect a little change, mostly in length, after the first wash.
• Unsanforized (loomstate) fabric can shrink noticeably in both waist and length when it first meets water, so makers often tell you to size up or soak first.
• Every chart on Menjitsu notes whether it’s raw or washed where the source says so. When it doesn’t, ask the seller.

Pick your shape

Makers name fits differently, so start from the shape you want, not the name on the tag.

• Read the six fit families in the Fit guide: wide, straight, slim straight, relaxed tapered, tapered and slim tapered.
• Thigh and leg opening change the look the most. Rise decides where the waistband sits and how the seat feels.
• Heavier fabric looks and feels roomier than the same numbers in a lighter cloth.

Open the fit guide →

Size by the tape, not the tag

A size 32 from one maker can be two inches different from another’s.

• Lay your best-fitting jeans flat and measure the waist, front rise, thigh, knee and opening. Then compare those numbers, not tag sizes.
• Raw denim gives roughly an inch at the waist as it’s worn, so a snug start is normal.
• Use Match my pair to find the closest size in every model, or enter your waist and let Menjitsu pick sizes for you.

Match my pair →Size by your waist →

Hemming and cuffing

Most selvedge jeans come long on purpose.

• Hem unsanforized jeans only after their first soak, or you may end up with them too short.
• Many denim shops offer chainstitch hemming; it twists the hem as you wear it, giving the rippled “roping” fade.
• Cuffing (rolling the hem) shows off the selvedge and lets you adjust the length to your shoes.

The full hemming and cuffing guide →

Break-in and fades

Fades come from wear, not time: indigo rubs away where the fabric creases and rubs.

• Whiskers form at the hips, honeycombs behind the knees and stacks above the hem where the leg bunches.
• Wear them often and live in them. Your shape and habits are what make the fades yours.
• The first weeks in raw denim are stiff; that stiffness is what sets the creases that fade later.

Washing without fear

There’s no rule that says you can never wash your jeans.

• Wash when they’re dirty or smell: turn them inside out, use cold water and a mild detergent, and hang them to dry.
• Holding off longer between early washes gives sharper contrast in your fades; washing sooner gives softer, more even ones.
• Dirt and sweat wear cotton fibres down, so going too long can shorten a pair’s life.

Repair, don’t replace

Good denim is built to be fixed.

• The crotch and back pockets usually wear through first. Reinforce thin spots early, before they become holes.
• Darning (re-weaving with thread) keeps the jean flexible; patches are stronger but stiffer.
• Many makers and denim shops repair their own jeans, and a well-repaired pair is part of the story.

Ask the community

Every denim head started somewhere. Ask questions, share progress and compare notes.

• Post your measurements in Fit help and others can point you at cuts that work for them.
• Share wear updates in Fades & care to see how different fabrics age.

Visit the community →